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Lacking the sex, grind, and prurient neon of neighbouring Thai destinations, this is an often overlooked sleepy temple town. Snuggled deep in the secretively undulating hills of northwest Laos it was, until the recent past, served by just two alarming modes of travel.

The first was Lao Airlines – a carrier often blacklisted by the US Embassy, the UN, and other companies that prefered their employees whole.

Lao Airlines has come of age in a distinctly Laotian manner and buses are much better.

Back in 1998 an unfussy ' modern' airport - that boasted moulded plastic bucket seats and video screens - was constructed two kilometres from town.

The earlier the better in fact, since most folk roll out of bed at 6am to offer alms to the resident monks (in a ceremony known as ).

Luang Prabang has no shortage of either monasteries or wats (over thirty at the last count) and for many visitors this is the source of its charm. Located near the tip of the northern peninsular, it was built for the royal family in the 16th century and is a prime example of the area’s temple architecture.

Riding motorbikes in Southeast Asia always comes with the caveat - wear helmets and definitely don't wobble around on skiddy roads tanked up on an a few bottled of beer. For more information, explore the Timeless Luang Prabang site, which is a good resource and pick up a country overview at Tourism Laos.

The runway has been extended to accommodate larger jets from even farther afield.Slide Show E-mail Page Print Hotel Contacts Luang Prabang is also served by the river during the wetter seasons.Boats may be chartered from Vientiane’s Ban Done river port but can be cramped, and may take up to a few days.Lao Airlines still flies regularly and many like myself – pursuing this elusive Luang Prabang guide – still brave it without a hitch.The roads are still winding but they are mostly well kept, and banditry is less in evidence.

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